Bougatsa and Beyond Thessaloniki Culinary Crossroads

At first glance, Thessaloniki can seem to tell the single story of a bustling modern Greek city. Step into the markets, though, and another city – and narrative – begins to appear. Traces of its Ottoman past remain in the street plan, the memory of Sephardic Jewish commercial life still shapes the old market grid, and the food carries the marks of Asia Minor, the Balkans, Pontus, and the Caucasus.